When José Luis Calfucura recalls his childhood journeys to the ancestral Mapuche heart of La Araucanía, a lush landscape of emerald lakes and smoky volcanoes in south-central Chile, his memories often include purple teeth.
"The adults told us children to go get maquis just so they could laugh at the results," he says. "After eating them, we ended up with our whole face painted purple."
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